|ETHNIC|EXOTIC|TRIBAL|AFRICAN|

Moyo, Treasurer 

The terms above  are flung around the fashion industry with no care at all. But what do these words even mean? I can’t lie when I hear “exotic” it conjures up images of tropical juice at a hall party, (but maybe that’s just me).  When I hear ‘ethnic’ it just seems to be anything that is not one plain colour. With ‘tribal’ it could range from stereotypical Native American wear to anything with feathers. It seems as though as soon as a print has a bit of colour and a pattern its is put under an umbrella term or tribal, ethnic or exotic.

What I have noticed over the past couple of years is the influx of ‘African’ prints in the UK, which is great. I love seeing the African diaspora immersing themselves in African culture and wearing it with pride. But as it now a fashion trend we are blending Western fashion with African prints and the fashion world is now catching on. But why is this even a problem, is not good that other cultures are finally appreciating our prints?

It just comes down to appropriation vs appreciation (which I know you are tired of hearing about).  One issue is the way that that non-Africans view this new trend with “African” prints and using it as throwaway “festival fashion.” Just because you’re on your lad’s holiday to Greece, does not mean it’s time for a dashiki matched with white high wasted ripped knee Topshop jeans and huaraches to come out. Our clothing is not something to be picked and dropped to get your edgy Instagram pic to 100+ likes.

Personally I feel Luis Vuitton trying to sell Ghana-must-go bags for $300 is the perfect example of cultural exploitation, stamping an L and a V does not add value to what is, effectively a bag for life. (Let’s just be honest, let’s just be real). I’ve also heard it said “If you don’t dress like that every day, or have any REAL affiliation, then please tell me how it isn’t fancy dress?’ it seems somewhat unfair that western people are profiting from copying our prints and pattern and rebranding it. I wouldn’t mind if they said ‘inspired by…Ankara from Nigeria or kente from Ghana or Kitenge from East Africa’ – is it really that hard to reference? But instead they brand it as ethnic, tribal or exotic – essentially fetishizing our prints for profit.

I don’t have a definitive opinion on non-Africans wearing traditional clothing, as I am unsure as to why a dashiki is more likely to be seen on someone of non-Africa descent than a sari on someone of non-Indian descent? What I would like to see however, is a proportional increase of African designer’s work hitting high streets and catwalks. The problem is not a white person wearing a dashiki, the problem is the businesses that profit from them and the people wearing them not understand or even being aware of the culture significance.

If you are interested in African fashion here are few website/stores owned by Africans (Pinterest have plenty to find inspiration from – https://uk.pinterest.com/STYLVO_/african-fashion-bloggers/)

https://www.mammaw.com/

http://mayasi.co.uk/en/

http://africanattireonline.co.uk/index.php?route=common/home

http://sapelle.com/

https://zuvaa.com/